For a few years now, my wife Jemima and I have tried to eat more ethically: very little meat, and mostly seasonal vegetables. On the whole, this has been a liberating experience. Rather than limiting my cooking, the restriction on ingredients has forced me to be more creative.
But there are times when I gaze into the veg box at this time of year and sigh for summer.
Everything is beautiful – don’t get me wrong. The beets are tight and hard, their stalks as red and glossy as painted nails. The greens are robust and the water forms pert bubbles on their waxy surface when I wash them. And I love the way the peeler draws neat orange lines in the muddy brown skin of the carrots.
Generally the longing for something soft and sun-kissed passes, but when it doesn’t, I sneak down to the Turkish cornershop at the end of our road to buy some evil, air-freighted tomatoes or an aubergine and treat us to a rare fix of unseasonal summer.
If you suffer from similar cravings, today’s trio of aubergine dishes should sort you out. They are all based on recipes Jane has brought back from annual summers in Puglia. She ate the salad and the “cakes” in one of the jumble of houses perched on a cliff edge in the crazily picturesque Polignano a Mare last year. The polpette are a speciality of the area. Together, they’ll deliver a little hit of sunshine to help you through this bitter February.
Incidentally, if you want to taste these dishes in situ, Espressino Travel, who often help with this column, run wonderful culinary tours of Puglia.
Aubergine and almond cakes
Serves 6
1 aubergine
2 large eggs, beaten
100g ground almonds
70g parmesan, finely grated
1 garlic clove, crushed with salt
1 tbsp parsley, chopped
2 tsp mint, chopped
Salt and black pepper
Olive oil, for frying
1 Preheat the oven to 170C/335F/gas mark 3½. Slice the aubergine into thin discs, about 5mm thick.
2 Mix together the beaten eggs with the almonds, cheese, garlic and herbs. Season well.
3 Place half the discs on a clean surface. Spread each round with the almond paste. Top with the other aubergine discs.
4 Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Fry each aubergine sandwich for 1 minute on each side until golden brown. Transfer to a baking tray. You may have to do this in batches, adding more oil as you go. Put the tray in the preheated oven for about 5-10 minutes to finish. This is great served with a red pepper sauce.
Aubergine wedge salad with pine nuts and ricotta
2 large aubergines, peeled
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp honey
2 tsp paprika
Salt and black pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
75g rocket
100g ricotta, or feta/goat’s cheese
50g pine nuts, toasted
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Cut the aubergines in half to make two shorter cylinders. Cut each cylinder into 8-10 wedges.
2 Mix together the oil, vinegar, honey and paprika. Toss the aubergine wedges in the marinade and season well. Tip on to a tray lined with baking parchment and put in the preheated oven for about 20 minutes, or until the aubergines are just tender.
3 Remove them from the oven and sprinkle with the garlic and chilli. Return to the oven for another 5 minutes. Set to one side to cool down.
4 To serve, toss the aubergines with the rocket. Top with small pieces of ricotta (or whichever cheese you use) and sprinkle with pine nuts. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.
Aubergine polpette
2 large aubergines/3 medium), peeled
Olive oil, for frying
Salt and black pepper
1 tbsp capers, soaked and drained
2 tbsp basil, chopped
A large pinch of fresh oregano
1 garlic clove, crushed
50g pecorino
1 egg, beaten
50g breadcrumbs
Fine panko breadcrumbs, for coating
250ml homemade tomato sauce
Extra basil, ripped, to serve
10 black olives, stoned and roughly chopped
1 Slice the aubergines into 5mm discs. Cut each slice into small dice. Heat the oil in a large pan. Tip in the diced aubergine and stir. Fry for a minute, season and cover. Cook over a low heat for 5 minutes, or until tender. Put in a sieve: press out any excess moisture.
2 Put in a large bowl and mix with capers, herbs, garlic, cheese, egg and breadcrumbs. Mix well and season. Put half the mix in a food processor and pulse for 10 seconds. Spoon this back into the bowl and mix with the remaining aubergine.
3 Shape into small balls and roll in the fine breadcrumbs. Heat the oil in a large nonstick frying pan and gently fry the balls for about 5 minutes, until browned all over. Add the tomato sauce to the pan and cook together for another 5 minutes.
4 Serve sprinkled with the extra basil and chopped olives.
- Henry Dimbleby is co-founder of the natural fast-food restaurant chain Leon; @HenryDimbleby
- Jane Baxter is a chef and food writer based in Devon @baxcooka; wildartichokes.co.uk
